Early with the stealth we found that most of the limbs were drilled out of square. This as described in the link below made it very stressfull on the hinges and limbs and you could never get the bows to shoot true center. So I would say after the bow is torn down you spend the time to check and correct the limbs as needed using the method on this link. Only applies to wood outboards.

This is what I do to fix a problem that most find with limb and outboard limb holes drilled from the Factory out of square. This causes undue stress on hinge and cables as well as making center shot tuning very hard.

First you will need to have;

3/16 drill
3- 4 to 6 inch c-clamps
vice
Level
hinge screws (ones from the bow)

Note: Check first to make sure that the power limb holes are parallel to each other and square to the limb. Using a square line up so the blade crosses the holes and check to see they are true. If they are not then it will be hard to do the rest of this mod as the hinges will still bind. See Fig #0

Fig #0


Step #1

Mark the limbs top and bottom sets to use matched from this point on.

Step #2

Put screw into one side so it passes through the top of the ouboard and passes into the power limb as in Fig #1

Fig #1


Step #3

Place the first clamp horizontal across the front end of the outboard limb so it contacts and aligns the front of the power limb to the outboard limb.

Step #4

Put second clamp on the horizontal plane just in front of where the hinge would sit between the limbs. Again apply with snug preasure.

Step #5

Place 3rd clamp behind just before where the limb starts to curve away from the end of the power limb.

Step #6

Put the setup in to a vice so the limb tip points to the floor and then try to level the setup with the level on the power limb. (Just needs to be close to assure you are level while drilling.)

Fig #2


Step #7

Check using the 3/16 bit to see if it will pass through, if it does limbs are inline. If not then you will carefully drill with the 3/16 drill from the top using the power limb hole as the guide.

Note: If when you look in the hole that there is more than 1/32 of material that will be taken out then you should not do the modification as the hole will be too out of round.

Step #8

Using the other hinge screw check to assure it will pass through. see Fig#3

Fig #3


Note: Keep the pair you drilled as a matched set, if you change the pair out they will not be centered to each other.

Note: Reason we only drill the outboard this way is that only that limb has the ajustment on the yoke to keep the limb true.

Note: Assemble limbs and align the limbs and tighten down screws off the bow then assemble on the bow.

Note: As an added help you can clean the outboard limb surface that makes contact with the hinge with a couple of dots of 24 hour epoxy to hold in place once all alignment has been made.

After you have done this then we will look at the hinges.

Hinges,

This is an area where a lot of problems occured with the bow. Most of it was from the first sets that used the Flat Head screws going through the top part of the hinge and threaded into the saddle. This along with the limbs being drilled out caused the limb to shift on the hinge because you could not retighten without taking the bow down. You would hear a huge popping sound out of the bow. This also occured on the bottom side of the hinge. Again the reason was the lack of true center line travel of the outboard to the power limb. Another side effect was the hinge pin would work its way out on one side while popping off the e-clip on the other. Last but not least all this untrueness would in some cases bend the hinge pin.

The first resolve we saw from the factory was the top down flatheads from the saddle and threaded into the hinge this gave the user the ability to retorque the screws but again the center line travel being out would negate this fix to a degree.

All that being said should you rebuild the hinge...............yep.

First, get them off the limbs and see if you can pull the pins out. Most of them need a little push, some need to be pounded out. If the later is the case I would suggest you get new ones but still follow the step to rebuild. Why? Because I found even the new ones are not deburred as well as they should be. This is done by running a small fine bench file through each boss that holds the pin. Also make sure no burrs are on the underside of the hinge plate where the threaded holes are.

Check to make sure all threads are there as many times they may have been cross threaded to a degree hence making the useless as a fastener. I use a Q-tip run through all the groves to find burrs. If none, assure that the pin is straight by rolling on a known flat surface. If it came out with little battle then it should be fine. Put just a thin coat of white grease on the hinge pin before you install. Run it through both way to assure it has coated all surfaces.

Now take some fine sand paper and just rough up on both limb areas where the bottom hinge will sit. Do the same to the bottom of the hinge that makes contact with this surface. Clean with a good 76% or better rubbing alcohol. For this part a small amount of 24 hour epoxy is needed to weld the hinge to the limb. ( Will come apart easy with a small tap the next time your rebuild is needed) DO NOT GET ON THE THREADS. Only a small amount is needed.

Next assemble the top hinge to the outboard and the saddle do not lock down screws yet. Keep this ready with the pin to assemble. ( You have already reworked the outboard limbs..................Right) Now put a small amount of mixed epoxy, enough to make the areas wet that make contact between the hinge and limb. Put them together and re-install the bottom power limb caphead screws but do not tighten down yet. Assemble the outboard hinge to the bottom part and re-install the pin.

Carefully line up the edges of both the outboard and the power limb on both sides. Move as needed. When you are sure the limb alignment is true start to tighten the upper and lower screws one by one. Checking the alignment as you go to assure no change. Secure until tight and then set aside to cure overnight.

Looks great Bob, thanks Joe