* CURRENT UPDATES
Last Updated 01/15/99
* SETTING UP YOUR ONEIDA BOW
* The BENEFITS of 80% LET-OFF BOWS
* NORTH AMERICAN CAMO From ONEIDA
CURRENT UPDATES
Oneida Eagle Bows, under the leadership of President, L.Rodger Loomis, has broken new ground by releasing a new bow design over the internet at the company's web site. The archery company is offering a limited edition preproduction collector's bow - code name: Black Eagle. The Black Eagle will be shown at the industry AMO World Trade Show , Columbus, OH, January 8-10, but will not roll out to dealers until after March following the feedback from the preproduction field testing.
The new design combines a new light weight forged and machined riser with a thin 2 piece grip and the famous smooth draw "K" cam shape which Oneida fanatics are addicted to.
The new Black Eagle has performance similar to the Lite-Force and AeroForce, but weighs only 4 lbs. Tip to Tip length is 46" and when combined with the long valley designed into the cam, gives plenty of comfort to finger shooters as well as release users. The bow continues the use of split cams and simplicity of design started with the popular Stealth which remains the company's flagship product. The Black Eagle will be priced in the $549 range with the Lite-Force at $499 and the Stealth at $599
Oneida Eagle Bows again leads the industry in innovation and customer service.
SETTING UP YOUR ONEIDA BOW
BY
STAFF SHOOTER--DR. GARY L. SHINN
Setting up the Oneida bow is no different than setting up any other bow. Knowledge of the components of the Oneida bow, and basic setup is easy. Compound bows, to the untrained eye, appear complicated, but as with anything, understanding of the function of the bow is really very basic.
Having been involved in the sport of archery for over thirty years, I thought I had a pretty good grasp on set-up, tuning and maintenance of most bows. Then I was introduced to the Oneida bow. At first, I like most people, thought the Oneida bow came from outer space, but after close inspection of the bow, it has all the same parts as any wheel bow or cam bow. The folks at Oneida, just arranged them in a different fashion.
After purchasing my first Oneida, I became acquainted with Mike Brooks, my local Oneida dealer. Mike has shown me more about bow set-up and tuning and basic bow maintenance than I ever knew. And Mike is a very experienced archer, he is a former staff shooter for Oneida, Wyoming state champion in 1991 and 1992, and Bowhunters of Wyoming state champion in 1992. Mike set-up my hunting bow, and advised me on arrow selection, vanes, nocks and broadheads, and I attribute my bowhunting success to his vast knowledge. With the knowledge Mike shared with me I am now able to set-up my own equipment and have the confidence it is done right.
It is my intention through this article to take the Oneida bow owner, and share with you the ease of basic bow set-up, maintenance and minor repairs of this incredible arrow launcher. I have included several photo's of important measurements, where they are taken, and what they should be. The factory includes an excellent owner's manual, but if you are like most people you never read it, or just skim through it. As has been said before, a picture is worth a thousand words. When you first receive your Oneida bow it has been set at approximately the middle of the weight range. To set the poundage, you will need a bow scale. Before you attempt to set the poundage, make sure you first loosen the socket head timing screw. Never turn a limb bolt even slightly without first loosening the socket head timing screw. Always turn each limb bolt the same number of turns on the upper and lower limbs. Each turn of the limb bolt equals about five pounds up or down. The correct tiller will ensure that both limbs are working together and not independently, once the bow is tillered you can check your poundage. If unsure about tiller refer to your owner's book.
To check the tiller you will need a ruler or tape measure. If the bow is in tiller, you may proceed with your set-up for shooting. If the bow is not in tiller, you must first loosen the socket head timing screw, and use the limb bolts to adjust the tiller. If the top cam is closer to the string turn the upper limb bolt counter clockwise, to bring it into tiller. Turn the limb bolts clockwise if the string is further away, check your measurements and adjust accordingly.
Once the bow is tillered, tighten the socket head timing screw. Now the beauty of the Oneida bow and the ease and installation of draw length and percentage of let-off you desire can be done. Refer to your owner's manual and select the module you want. The nice thing about selecting and changing the modules, is you do not have to reduce the poundage on the bow to accomplish this. Simply loosen the small set screw located on the K-cam and with gentle downward pressure, you can remove the module, never try to pry up on the module as this can break it. Once the modules are in place simply tighten the set screws and that is all there is to it! Next you will need to check the brace height, just like you would do on any recurve bow. Measure the distance between the throat of the grip and the string and refer to your owner's manual for the recommended brace height for your model of bow. If the brace height is wrong you will need to raise or lower it by adding twists to the string to raise it, or decrease the number of twists to lower it. As a guideline five twists equals approximately 1/16 of an inch.
If you have to adjust the brace height, and do not have a bow press, simply loosen the socket head timing screw, and decrease the weight of the bow by turning each limb bolt two turns on the upper limb and two turns on the lower limb, until you can remove the string. Make the necessary twists to the string and re-check the brace height. Remember to keep track of the number of turns on each limb so you can return the bow to the correct poundage. And re-check the tiller. Next, with the help of a friend, you can set your perfect draw control. This is in my opinion, one of the neatest features of the Oneida bow. Once set the perfect draw control ensures perfect bow performance shot after shot. The perfect draw control is a double check system to guarantee an exact anchor point every time the bow is drawn. Loosen the small set screw on the PDC just loose enough that it will move, and slowly draw the bow to your anchor point. Have your friend make sure the PDC comes up against the pylon, ( as a side note for 1997 bows, the PDC hits the cam and they have no set screws), then let the bow down and tighten the set screw. You are now ready to finish the bow set-up and get to the fun part, shooting and tuning! Arrow rests come in a variety of shapes, sizes and materials. Oneida recommends a flipper type rest for finger shooter's and two prong type rests for release shooter's. Whatever your shooting style make sure your rest is centered in the middle of the plunger hole in the riser. For your nocking point begin with 1/4 inch above 90 degrees for finger shooter's, and for release shooter's the bottom of the arrow should be at 90 degrees. This should set you up for your basic tuning and have you very close to centershot. The next and probably most important item is routine bow maintenance. Each time you take your bow out to shoot it take a few seconds and look the entire bow over. Inspect the string for wear, such as broken or frayed strands. Check the power cables for fraying by lightly running a Q-tip swab over the metal cable on the bottom of the cable, if any wires of the cable are broken the cotton swab will detect it.
Wax the bow string regularly, this will prolong the life of the string considerably. I used to wax my bowstrings by simply rubbing the wax into the string with my fingers, but Mike Brooks showed me a better way. Take a piece of soft leather, wrap it around the string and simply slide it up and down the string slowly, this makes the wax penetrate the fibers of the string, ensuring complete coverage. Most shoe repair shops have plenty of scrap leather lying around, pick up a piece and try it. Since we are talking about strings, what do you do if you break a string while in the field? Most archer's I know always have a set of allen wrenches with them, so what you do is this. Loosen the socket head timing screw on the lower cam, and decrease the weight of the bow. Remember to turn each limb bolt the same number of turns and keep track of how many total turns. Once the poundage has been reduced enough so you can place the lower limb tip on the ground and compress the limbs, you can now place your new string on the bow. Then turn your limb bolts back the same number of turns, and the bow will be back at the right poundage, check your tiller and you are back in business. As a side note when putting on a new string, when the weight is reduced is a good time to add your string accessories: peep, silencer's, kisser button. If you find that your power cables need to be replaced it too is a simple task. All you need is a one inch S hook, and your allen wrenches. Take the S hook and attach it from the string to the power cable, this will relax the opposite power cable so you can remove the clevis pin from its bracket. Next loosen the allen screw where the power cable inserts into the cam. As you back out the allen screw the swedged end of the power cable can be removed. Simply reverse the procedure when putting in the new power cable. Once the new cable is in place, do the same for the opposite power cable. After both power cables have been replaced draw the bow a few times to seat the new cables. Power cables are inexpensive and easy to replace. Your owner's manual tells you to replace them after 6000 shots. I don't know about you, but I have no idea how many times I have shot my bow, so inspect the power cables regularly.
Compound bows have moving parts, and moving parts need to be lubricated. There a many good lubricants on the market, try and select one that will not attract dirt, or has a strong odor for the bowhunters out there. Place a small amount of oil on the hinges on the outboard limbs, and for approximately two inches where the power cables bends over the cams, I also place a drop or two behind my bow grip for the timing cables that pass up and down through the riser. Also the timing wheels can use a drop or two, use the oil sparingly, and wipe off the excess. Since I mentioned the timing wheels, check the tension on the cable at the timing wheel, it should not be too loose or too tight, but have approximately 1/16 inch of play. If too loose, you will notice it's louder - the only pressure on this cable is what you put on it. To adjust the cable tension on the timing system, first loosen the socket head timing screw. Then loosen the small set screw on the top of the timing wheel. Then take a slotted screwdriver and turn the screw on the timing wheel clockwise until the desired tension is achieved, then tighten the small set screw. That's all there is to it.
Your most useful tool for the Oneida bow is knowledge of how the bow works, it is just like any other compound bow, it just looks different, and the arrangement of the cams and cables and limbs allows the Oneida bows to out perform all the rest! I have shot many bows over my career, and none perform like the Oneida. But more importantly, they are easy to tune, maintain and when need be repair.
For those that might be interested in my own personal set-up for bowhunting, I shoot an Aero-Force 60 to 80 pound weight range. My bow is set at 70 pounds, I draw an Easton XX75 2413 camo hunter shaft at 29 inches. Flex-fletch 4.18 vanes, pro nocks, and Thunderhead 125 broadheads. I also have an HHA Stealth hunter bowsight with five pins. I use the Oneida 8 arrow bowquiver, and a six inch mercury filled stabilizer, and a wrist strap. I usually carry six broadheads and one judo point to keep my muscles warm, so when it comes time to shoot a broadhead at an animal, I'm ready. Well hopefully this article will take away the mystery of the Oneida bow, and give you some basic guidelines to go by when setting up and maintaining your bow. If you are still not sure you can make the adjustments to set up your bow, contact your nearest Oneida dealer for help. If you live in a rural area and wish to send your bow back to the factory for repairs, please have the following information ready when you call. Your bow model, weight range, draw length, serial number, and a brief description of the problem. Remove all accessories from your bow prior to shipping.
Call Oneida at (315) 668-0028 they will assign you a return authorization number that must be placed on the outside of the shipping box, and also attached to your bow. Read your owner's manual thoroughly to become totally familiar with your bow, but if you are not sure about something check with your dealer, or feel free to contact Mike Brooks of B&B Archery here in Cody, Wyoming at (307) 587-8583. Good luck with your Oneida bow, and good shooting!
80% Let-Off Bows
In 1993 Oneida Eagle was the first to introduce 80% Let-Off in the X-80 series of bows. The Oneida 80% Let-Off is the only True 80% meaning that the let-off is 80% meaning that the let-off is consistently 80% at all points not just at the anchor as with many bows. The 80% Let-Off, in combination with the Oneida PDC (perfect draw control), gives a smooth draw with a gradual valley making it remarkable bow to draw. The response to the introduction was tremendous and continues today in the Lite-Force bow series.
The 80% Let-Off feature on an Oneida bow will enable the shooter to draw about 10# heavier in bow weight than a standard compound. The Oneida design incorporates a very smooth draw curve which lets off early and gradual, making the bow shooter friendly.
I. BENEFITS
A. Allows archer to maintain full draw longer
B. Allows archer to hold more poundage and hold less
C. Archer can maintain a comfortable anchor point
EXAMPLE: Draw 70# peak-holding 14#
II. YOUNG ARCHERS
A. Easier for youth to draw
A. Eliminates stress fatigue after shooting
III. KEEPS PEOPLE SHOOTING
A. After injuries: shoulder, neck
B. After heart attacks, arthritis
C. Smooth draw enables them to continue shooting
D. Rick Klien and others-to with mouth, only Oneida enables this.
NEWS RELEASE FROM ONEIDA
ONEIDA INTRODUCES NEW CAMO
North American Camo has been researched and developed by the Oneida Factory. It will be the standard camo on the popular Aero-Force bow and the Lite-Force bow.
The camo is versatile so it will work well in all parts of North America. The most innovative feature of this camo is that it is designed to universally complement all other camo clothing and accessories. When North American Camo bow is held in front of an outfit in any other camo such as Mossy Oak R, or Real Tree TM, it blends right in with the background. Thus the hunter can have a complete outfit.
Also in this series is the standard camo that was redesigned for the T-III bow, Autumn Oak. Autumn Oak has the same versatile characteristics in different pattern.
Shown in this photo are three bows in North American Camo and Autumn Oak Camo and Autumn Oak against camo fabric. Notice the ability for the bow to disappear into the background.
Back to Camo PageStatistics: Posted by JOneida — Thu Jan 22, 2009 11:29 pm
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